Beyond Kuta: Bali's Two Best Nature Retreats
Most Japanese travelers land in Bali and head straight to Ubud or the southern beach resorts. But the island's east coast hides a completely different Bali — one that's quieter, cheaper, and arguably more beautiful. Candidasa, a small coastal town two hours east of Ubud, offers world-class snorkeling, empty black-sand beaches, and authentic Balinese village life.
Having spent months in both areas, here's an honest comparison to help you decide where to base yourself — or how to split your time between both.
Ubud: Culture, Rice Terraces, and Yoga
Ubud has earned its reputation as Bali's cultural capital. The Tegallalang Rice Terraces, Sacred Monkey Forest, and traditional dance performances create an experience no other Southeast Asian town matches. The food scene has exploded with farm-to-table restaurants and organic cafes alongside traditional warungs.
The downside? Ubud in 2026 is crowded. Traffic jams choke the main roads, Instagram tourists pack the rice terraces by 9 AM, and prices have climbed sharply. The authentic Ubud experience now requires venturing to surrounding villages like Tegallalang, Keliki, or Penestanan.
Candidasa: The Quiet Alternative
Candidasa feels like Ubud did 20 years ago. The pace is slow, the locals are genuinely friendly (not just tourist-friendly), and you can snorkel directly from the beach over coral gardens. The nearby fishing village of Amed is even more remote, with volcanic black-sand beaches and some of Bali's best shore diving.
Tirta Gangga water palace is 30 minutes away, and the stunning Lempuyang Temple ("Gates of Heaven") is an hour's drive without the massive queues you'd face coming from south Bali. The eastern route also passes through some of Bali's most dramatic landscape — rice paddies backed by Mount Agung.
The Split Itinerary
The best approach is to spend 3-4 days in each. Start in Ubud for culture and rice terraces, then hire a driver (about 500,000 IDR / 4,600 yen for the 2-hour transfer) to Candidasa for snorkeling and relaxation. The drive itself passes through stunning scenery and makes for a great half-day experience.
Q: How do I get from Ubud to Candidasa?
A: Hire a private driver for 400,000-600,000 IDR (3,700-5,500 yen). The 2-hour drive passes through beautiful scenery. Public transport exists but is unreliable.
Q: Is Candidasa safe for solo female travelers?
A: Yes, Candidasa is very safe. The small-town atmosphere means locals notice and look out for visitors. Standard precautions apply, same as anywhere in Bali.
Q: Which area has better food options?
A: Ubud wins overwhelmingly for variety and quality. Candidasa has fewer but more authentic options. Stock up on any specialty items in Ubud before heading east.
Q: Can I surf near Candidasa?
A: Candidasa isn't a surf destination — the reef protects the shore. For surfing, stay in Bali's south. Candidasa is about snorkeling, diving, and relaxation.
Q: What's the best time to visit east Bali?
A: April to October offers the driest weather. June-August is peak season but east Bali never feels crowded. The wet season (November-March) brings afternoon showers but lower prices.
Recommended Indonesia Tours and Experiences
Indonesia is far more than just Bali, but Bali alone could fill a week. From sacred temples and rice terraces to underwater adventures and volcano sunrises, these are the experiences that define an Indonesian adventure.
Recommended Experiences
Here are some top-rated experiences you can book in advance to make the most of your trip: