Complete Guide to Phi Phi Islands: Your Tropical Paradise

The first time I came into Ton Sai Bay on the morning ferry, I did the thing everyone does: I stood up too early, grabbed the rail, and stared at two enormous limestone walls pinching a sliver of green water between them. It looked like somebody had stapled a postcard to the sea. Then the diesel smell hit, the long-tail boats swerved round the bow, and I remembered that this tiny pair of islands takes thousands of people a day. Both things are true at once. Phi Phi is staggeringly beautiful, and Phi Phi is busy. Most of what follows is about how to enjoy the first without being flattened by the second.

This is the guide I wish I had carried the first time. It covers what the islands actually are, how to reach them from Phuket and Krabi, what is worth your limited hours, what the rules are in Maya Bay now, how much money to bring, and how a Singapore traveller can slot it into a longer Thailand trip. I have also corrected a few things that float around online. Karon Beach, for example, is on Phuket, not Phi Phi, and the famous beach film was not what some pages claim.

What the Phi Phi Islands actually are

Phi Phi (pronounced roughly "pee pee") is a small archipelago in the Andaman Sea, sitting between Phuket and the Krabi coast. There are six islands in the group, but you will only care about two. Koh Phi Phi Don is the big one, shaped like a dumbbell, with a narrow sandy isthmus joining two rocky halves. That isthmus is where almost everybody stays, eats and drinks. Koh Phi Phi Leh is the smaller, uninhabited island to the south, home to Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon and Viking Cave. There is no village on Leh and no overnight stay.

The whole group is protected inside Hat Nopparat Thara – Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park. That matters for you because it is the reason you pay a park fee, the reason chemical sunscreen is discouraged, and the reason Maya Bay has rules at all. The islands also carry history. The December 2004 tsunami hit the isthmus hard, and the village was rebuilt from almost nothing. When you walk down the lanes today, you are walking through a town barely two decades old, which explains why it feels like a single holiday-resort street rather than an old fishing village.

There are no cars. Luggage goes by hand-pulled cart, and people walk or take long-tail boats. That one fact shapes everything from where you choose a room to how much you pack.

Getting there: Phuket, Krabi and everything in between

Almost nobody flies to Phi Phi directly. You land in Phuket (HKT) or Krabi (KBV), reach a pier, and take a boat. From Singapore the flight to Phuket is about two hours and a bit, and several carriers run it daily. If your dates are not firm yet, or a visa application asks for an onward itinerary, our flight reservation service gives you a dated reservation to show without buying a full fare, which is handy while you are still deciding between Phuket and Krabi as your gateway.

A few things people forget. First, the ferry timetable thins out in the rainy months and boats sometimes cancel in rough seas, so never pin a same-day flight to the last ferry back. Second, sit on the lower deck if you get seasick; the upper deck is more fun in calm water and miserable in a swell. Third, if you are landing in Krabi and plan to start in Ao Nang, a pre-booked ride saves haggling: we list a Krabi airport transfer to Ao Nang from around S$33.38.

Day trip or stay overnight: the honest comparison

This is the question I get asked most. My answer is that a day trip is better value if you only want the famous bays, and an overnight is better if you want the islands without the crowd. The tour boats mostly leave Phi Phi by 4 pm. After that, the beaches empty, the light goes gold, and the isthmus turns into a different place.

If you can spare one night, take it. My best Phi Phi memory is not a famous lagoon. It is walking out to the isthmus at 6 am with a coffee and having the whole beach to myself, with only a fisherman untangling his net.

The big stops, one by one

Maya Bay

Let us deal with the famous one first. Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh is the cove that starred in the 2000 film The Beach and, after that, was loved almost to death. In 2018 Thai authorities closed it so the reef and the blacktip reef sharks could recover. It reopened in early 2022 with a very different set of rules. Boats no longer pull up to the beach on the main side. They dock at a pier behind the island in Loh Samah Bay, and you walk a short boardwalk over to the sand. Visits are limited in time and in numbers, and swimming in the bay itself is not allowed, which protects the young corals and the sharks that return to the shallows.

The upside is that the bay looks marvellous again. The sand is whiter than I remember, the water is a clean, almost milky turquoise, and the cliffs wrap around you on three sides. The downside is that it is a look-and-photograph stop, not a swim stop. Go early or late if you can; mid-morning, even with the limits, the boardwalk fills.

Pileh Lagoon

Pileh Lagoon is a hidden cove tucked inside the cliffs of Phi Phi Leh, the water an astonishing green that seems lit from underneath. Boats idle at the mouth and you swim in. It is shaded, so it stays cool in the afternoon, and the water is clear enough to see your feet. This is where I do most of my swimming on a tour day, since swimming in Maya itself is off the table.

Viking Cave and the swiftlet nests

Viking Cave on the eastern side of Phi Phi Leh is where villagers have harvested the nests of edible-nest swiftlets for generations. You cannot go inside, but you can drift past and see the bamboo scaffolding climbing the rock. Honestly, it is a brief photo stop, and the story is the more interesting part.

Monkey Beach

A small sandy cove where long-tailed macaques wait for boats. Please do not feed them. The monkeys here have a history of snatching bags, sunglasses and phones, and feeding them is exactly how it began. Keep food in your bag, zipped, and let them do their thing.

Bamboo Island and Mosquito Island

Bamboo Island (Koh Mai Phai) sits to the north and is a wide, powdery crescent of white sand with a reef off the edge. It is flat, easy for children and good for a long, lazy lunch. Mosquito Island next door is smaller and quieter. Neither is connected to Phi Phi Don by a causeway, whatever some pages say; you reach them by boat. Bamboo Island is where our Phi Phi, Maya, Bamboo, Khai and Maiton tour by yacht spends its afternoon, from about S$91.65 per person at the time of writing.

Phi Phi Viewpoint

On Phi Phi Don there is a staircase climbing from the village to a trio of viewpoints. It takes around 20 to 40 minutes depending on your fitness and the heat. Bring water and wear shoes that grip; flip-flops on wet steps are a mistake you only make once. The reward is the classic view of the two bays curving away on either side of the isthmus. Go before 7 am for sunrise or after 4 pm for sunset, and avoid midday entirely.

Long Beach (Hat Yao) and Loh Moo Dee

If you want snorkelling without a tour, Long Beach on the south-east of Phi Phi Don is the answer. Getting there is a 10-minute long-tail ride or a 40-minute walk over the hill. Reef fish crowd the rocks at the near end. Loh Moo Dee, on the far side of the island, is quieter again and gets little attention.

Khai Island and Maiton

These are the two other names you will see on tour boards. Khai Nai and Khai Nok are small islets east of Phuket with sandy shallows and decent reef. Maiton is a tiny island with a lovely beach. Both are used on longer speedboat itineraries that start from Phuket, which is why the yacht and speedboat day trips advertise them together with Phi Phi.

What to do with each hour: three sample days

I would not try to see everything on a single day. People who treat Phi Phi like a checklist spend most of the day in a boat and remember it as a blur. Choose three stops you really care about and give them time.

The rules in Maya Bay and the national park

Because the rules shifted after the closure, a lot of older blog posts are now wrong. Here is what to expect, with the caveat that officials adjust numbers and seasons, so ask your operator.

• National park fee. Foreign adults pay a per-person fee to enter the park, around 400 baht, with a lower rate for children. Many tours include it. Always confirm whether yours does, because "excluding national park fee" is common in listings.
• Time limits. Boats and visitors are scheduled in short blocks at Maya Bay, and you get about an hour at most on the boardwalk and sand.
• No swimming at Maya Bay. Wade in at the shore if you like, but swimming is not permitted in the main bay.
• Seasonal closure. The bay has been closed for several months of the monsoon season in recent years to give the coral a rest. If you travel from August through October, check before you plan around it.
• No drones, no litter, no feeding wildlife. Rangers do enforce this.
• Sunscreen. Thai marine parks discourage sunscreens containing certain UV filters. Bring a mineral, reef-safe one, or cover up with a rash vest.

None of this is meant to put you off. The restrictions are why the water looks as good as it does. If a boat captain offers to take you onto the beach or let you swim at Maya, say no politely and tell your operator afterwards.

When to go: weather month by month

The Andaman side has two seasons that matter. The dry season runs roughly November through April, with calm seas, blue skies and the best visibility underwater. The wetter season runs from May or June to October, with more cloud, afternoon storms and rougher crossings. It is not a washout, and prices drop, but speedboats can be cancelled for days at a time.

If you can choose, aim for December to early March. If you want fewer people and can live with a change of plans, shoulder months such as late April or early November are worth considering.

Where to stay on Phi Phi Don

Accommodation is concentrated around the isthmus, with a handful of quieter resorts on outlying beaches. Here is how I think about it.

• In the village (Ton Sai). Walkable to piers, restaurants and bars. Loud at night. Good for one-night stays and anyone who wants to do their own thing.
• Loh Dalum Bay side. Beachfront, a short walk from the village, with some mid-range and upper-end hotels. A sensible middle ground.
• Long Beach, Laem Tong and other outer beaches. Peaceful and scenic, but you rely on long-tail boats or hotel shuttles. Great for couples who want to switch off.
• Viewpoint hillside rooms. Beautiful views, but many steps and no luggage cart access. Pack light.

Rooms in peak season fill weeks ahead. In the rainy season you can often walk up and negotiate. Either way, ask the property how it handles luggage from the pier, because it can mean a long walk in the heat with a heavy bag.

Eating and drinking

The food on the isthmus is a mix of Thai staples, pizza and pancake carts, and grilled seafood laid out on ice for you to point at. Quality varies widely. My rule is simple: if a restaurant has a laminated 40-page menu with photos of everything, walk on. The best meals I have had here came from a family place with six dishes written on a whiteboard.

• Pad kra pao and fried rice are reliable, cheap and quick.
• Grilled fish with lime and chilli sauce is worth the splurge. Ask the price per kilo before they weigh it.
• Roti with banana and condensed milk is the street-food dessert you will end up eating twice.
• Fresh coconuts and fruit shakes cost little and save you from buying plastic water bottles.

Nightlife is mostly beach bars, buckets of spirits and fire shows. It is a young, loud scene. If you want quiet, stay away from the isthmus after 10 pm or book on the far side of the island.

What things cost

Thailand is excellent value for Singapore dollars, but Phi Phi has island prices. Everything is shipped in by boat, and that shows on menus. These are approximate figures from recent trips and will have moved a little.

As a budget guide, a careful traveller can do Phi Phi for around 2,500 to 3,500 baht a day including a room, meals and a boat trip. A comfortable one will spend nearer 6,000 to 9,000 baht. If you are paying in Singapore dollars, our tour listings quote straight in your currency, which makes the comparison easier than juggling baht at a currency counter.

Combining Phi Phi with Phuket, Krabi and Bangkok

Most people do Phi Phi as part of a longer Thailand trip. Here are the combinations that work well in practice.

Phi Phi plus Phuket

The simplest. Spend a few nights in Phuket, take a day trip to Phi Phi, and then add an evening show if you like spectacle. Our Simon Cabaret Phuket ticket starts from roughly S$28.10 and makes an easy night out after a long boat day.

Phi Phi plus Krabi

Slightly slower, slightly prettier. Krabi gives you Railay, Ao Nang, hot springs and limestone climbs. Pair it with a James Bond Island day trip through Phang Nga Bay; we sell the James Bond Island join tour from around S$36.84, national park fee excluded.

Phuket and Krabi, then Bangkok

If you have ten days or more, finish in Bangkok and fly home from Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang. A single afternoon at the Grand Palace is plenty, and a river cruise is a gentle way to end the trip; see the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun guided tour from S$22.00 or the Bangkok street food tuk-tuk tour.

Visas, entry and connectivity for Singapore travellers

Singapore passport holders can enter Thailand without a visa for tourism, for up to 30 days at the time of writing, per our latest verified checks of official sources. You are also expected to submit the Thailand Digital Arrival Card online before landing. Rules change, and other nationalities have different arrangements, so check the current entry requirements for your passport on our visa requirements page. If you do need an e-visa, the fee on the government portal is listed at about 1,000 baht, and processing takes around two weeks, so apply early.

Keep your passport valid for at least six months from the date you arrive, and carry proof of onward travel. If a visa file or an airline asks for an itinerary and you have not paid for a full fare, you can arrange a flight reservation for visa applications and keep your plans flexible.

For data, island signal can be patchy but is generally fine around the village. An eSIM saves queuing at the airport. We list options such as the Thailand unlimited 4G/5G data eSIM from about S$12.45, plus cheaper plans from S$4.00. Install it before you fly, and keep airplane mode on until you land.

What to pack, and what to leave behind

• A small dry bag. Phi Phi boats splash, and your phone will thank you.
• Water shoes for rocky beaches and coral shallows.
• Reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and a rash vest. The sun on the water is harsher than it feels.
• Cash in small notes. Some pier counters and long-tail captains do not take cards.
• Motion-sickness tablets if you are prone. Take them before boarding, not once you feel ill.
• A light jacket for the speedboat back at sunset; wet skin and wind get cold.
• A reusable bottle. There are refill stations in town, and plastic waste on the islands is a real problem.

Leave behind the big suitcase, the high heels and the drone. You will thank yourself at the pier.

Safety, health and responsible travel

Phi Phi is generally safe, but there are common-sense points. Wear a life jacket on the boat when offered; the sea can be choppy. Do not swim at the isthmus after drinking, since boat traffic and currents are not forgiving. Lock your room and keep valuables out of sight on the beach. Jellyfish are present at certain times of year, so ask locally before snorkelling, and a vinegar kit is cheap insurance.

Responsible travel here is not a cliché. The reef took years to recover after Maya Bay closed, and it only stays healthy if visitors cooperate. Never stand on coral, never touch turtles or sharks, take litter back to the mainland, and choose operators that follow the park rules. A good captain will tell you the same.

Travel insurance that covers boat transfers and medical evacuation is worth the cost. The nearest big hospitals are in Phuket and Krabi, and a speedboat transfer from Phi Phi is not cheap if you are paying for it yourself.

Snorkelling, diving and what you will see underwater

The reef around Phi Phi is not pristine the way it was before mass tourism, but it is recovering, and on a calm day the visibility can be superb. At Bamboo Island and the Khai islets you will see parrotfish, sergeant majors, angelfish and the occasional cuttlefish drifting over the sand. At Maya Bay, from the boardwalk, you can often spot juvenile blacktip reef sharks patrolling the shallows. They are small, shy and harmless, and watching them from dry land is the whole point of the new rules.

For certified divers, the Phi Phi group offers wall dives, shallow bays and a few wrecks within reach. Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, further south, are more advanced and often combined with Koh Lanta. If you are new to diving, a try-dive in calm water costs less than you might expect and is a good way to test whether you enjoy it. Whatever your level, choose an operator with small groups and ask how they handle anchoring; good boats use mooring buoys and never drop anchor on coral.

A mask that fits properly is the single best bit of kit. Hired masks are often scratched or leaky, and nothing ruins a swim like a flooded nose. If you are travelling light, a cheap snorkel set from home is worth its weight.

Taking good photographs without getting in anyone else's way

The islands are made for photography, and the light does most of the work. Early morning and the last hour before sunset give soft, warm colour on the cliffs and flatter the water. Midday glare flattens everything into a bright blue smudge. If you are on a tour, you cannot choose your hours, but you can choose your spot: stand at the front of the boat for clean shots of the cliffs rather than the back with the engine wash.

• Use a polarising filter or the polarised mode on your camera app to cut surface glare and reveal the colour of the water.
• Keep your phone in a waterproof pouch with a lanyard. Salt spray gets everywhere.
• Shoot the viewpoint from slightly to one side of the main crowd; the wide frame with the two bays is better with a few people in it than none.
• At Pileh Lagoon, photograph from the water at eye level rather than from the boat deck.
• Ask before photographing local people, boat captains and fishermen, and thank them.

Mistakes I made so you do not have to

I once booked a ferry back to Phuket at 4 pm, the same day as my flight. The sea picked up, the boat was delayed, and I spent the evening arguing with an airline desk. Leave a night between your last boat and your flight, always. Another time I left my wallet with cash in a bag on the beach and watched a macaque unzip the pocket. Small notes in a zipped waterproof pouch, nothing in an outside pocket.

I also over-planned. My first itinerary squeezed the viewpoint, Long Beach, a boat trip and a dinner reservation into a single afternoon. By 3 pm I was sunburnt, dehydrated and cross. The second trip, with nothing scheduled after lunch, was the one I remember fondly. Phi Phi rewards slowness.

Finally, I assumed my phone would work everywhere. Signal drops in the lagoon and on some of the outer beaches. Download offline maps and screenshot your ferry tickets before you leave the village.

Is Phi Phi right for you?

I will be straight about this. If you want an empty tropical hideaway, Phi Phi in peak season is not it. If you want astonishing scenery, easy logistics and a mix of beach, reef and nightlife, it is superb. The trick is timing: go early in the day, stay out late, avoid the middle, and keep a little flexibility for weather.

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